meters. to the three ropes: W. Branski and you may Z. Klaput and Meters. Malatynski and J. Olszewski beside me. New wind are light however, there clearly was much of deep, inconvenient snow. We traversed this new terrace diagnoly upwards to-arrive the latest stones to the the edge of the big plateau. Underneath her or him the chance of avalanches is actually decreased. This new channel there’s much safer but commercially more difficult. I entered the new ribs and you can spurs created out-of snow and material, steep snowfields where we had to utilize freeze-screws for belay. In the 5 p.yards. we began to prepare Bivouac I. For the an exposed rib (7100 meters.) we rarely produced several show systems to your camping tents. I slept secured, with place the ropes through the tent’s wall surface and you can clipping onto all of them with karabiners. The same time the brand new Sherpas descended into seat and you can P. Mlotecki, A good. Pietraszek, Meters. Rogalski left the base having Camp II.
Rubinowski; W
The weather and conditions in addition to ascend were comparable given that big date prior to. We went till 4 p.yards. just and you will began to plan for Bivouac II (7300 m.) again on the unconvenient accumulated snow and you may rock rib. To the twenty five Will get, i awoke at the beginning of the early morning and you can have been easily commit further of the nine a.meters. Earliest observed a steep ancestry on a couloir, and than we mounted involved right up inside deep snowfall. Ultimately at about cuatro p dig this.yards. we hit the top stone prevents (7450 meters.). Not as much as its overhangs i prepared the brand new comfy networks the past Bivouac III. Here we place once again the latest securing line and you will slept. I remaining the brand new tents towards twenty-six Will get throughout the eight-31 a.yards. J. Olszewski, who had been effect weak stayed in the tent, belayed of the repaired rope. We walked throughout the two hundred yards. steeply in the mountain, up against a robust piece of cake blowing. We attained the newest apartment part at the conclusion of the couloir along side stones and discovered having astonishment you to definitely as opposed to an excellent pass, a massive ice-plateau extended truth be told there. Numerous meters left flower the newest material and you can ice ridge regarding Kangbachen, and far to come featured the new ridge out-of Yalung Ehang. Part of the conference off Kangchenjunga are invisible. To start with the newest ridge was not hard. Through to the presumed convention away from Kangbachen is a rock-tower, that people of the-approved by abseiling immediately after which climbing up. About the fresh new tower was once again a team of small rocks and you can a couple cold elevations of the discussion. We got that brief stone because the a beneficial souvenier. It was difficult to court hence height are highest. I mounted both of them. It had been approximately 11-20 a great.m. The new piece of cake wasn’t solid neither was it cold; however the flick whenever loaded toward my personal cam bankrupt.
Wojtek Branski counted the heat regarding snowfall, it absolutely was-13°C. Beneath you the latest clouds and you may fog was veiling much more about of the vista. We arrive at go lower at step one p.m. Passing by the small rocks i leftover an email your ascent.
I went down of Bivouac III towards the twenty seven Could possibly get within 9 a great.yards. We were during the continuous touch that have Z. Staszyszyn at Ft Camp, guiding me to an ending up in P. Mlotecki and you can An excellent. Pietraszek. When entered in general we bivouacked you to nights in the a great crevasse. Following day i achieved the latest camping tents out of Camp IV on the cuatro p.m. Eventually we hit the base Go camping to your 30 Can get around six p.yards.
Towards the 24 Get, i gone late, around noon
We attained Ghunza inside two days that have good night of other people contrary Kangbachen town. During the Ghunza the latest expedition existed 3 days to help you celebrate into porters all of our success.